As a person who eats out for a living, the sudden closure in March of restaurant dining rooms sent me into a bit of a tailspin.
First and foremost, I worried about the industry, full of hard-working, generous and creative souls that were suddenly without work. I set to writing about what these people were doing — mostly feeding the community anyway, many times without being paid for it — and how concerned readers could help restaurant workers.
I was so busy covering the news that I didn’t stop to think about how deeply I missed hospitality. Being served delicious food and drink while I relax and have a conversation with my friends and family is something I will never take for granted again.
After a short medical leave, which happened to coincide with the slow reopening of restaurants, I’m back at it, and I cannot tell you how great it is to be out again, tasting my way through my favorite restaurants and reconnecting with the people who work so hard to make our dining scene great.
Though things are different now — it takes some getting used to everyone (including us!) wearing masks — it’s great to have some sense of normalcy.
I dedicated my first few weeks of eating out again to checking out spots I was curious about, but also satisfying some cravings. Here’s where I ate and what to expect if you decide to venture out.
Please be aware that at most restaurants, reservations are now required. If they take walk-ins, you’ll still have to supply your contact information to help trace the virus. Also, since capacity is limited, it’s really important that you keep or cancel your reservation to allow businesses to seat as many customers as possible.
Mancini’s
One of the first restaurants to open its dining room after restrictions were loosened just happened to have what I was craving — steak. Plus, who doesn’t feel better after some time in this dimly lit, retro dining room? Because the restaurant has multiple rooms and an expansive bar, putting some distance between the tables is a snap.
We were seated in the gilded, straight-outta-the-disco-era bar, which was great for people watching from afar. Our steaks were perfectly medium rare, the garlic toast was as addictive as ever, and my martini dry, just the way I like it.
The restaurant has expanded its patio as well, adding tents to make it weatherproof, so if you’re more comfortable outside, they have you covered, too. If you’re looking for a mid-day meal, the iconic steakhouse is serving lunch during this time, offering sandwiches, salads, and, of course, garlic toast.
531 W. Seventh St., St. Paul; 651 224-7345; mancinis.com
Surly
At another spot with ample space for spreading out, I had initially hoped we’d be seated in the giant beer garden, but as luck would have it, a storm hit.
We were seated inside the beer hall, where tables were spaced more than six feet apart, and staff members enforcing the masks-in-common-area rule. Surly has also temporarily switched to counter service to decrease interaction between customers and workers. You order beer and food at the bar and take the beer with you. The food is delivered to your table when it’s ready.
The menu has also changed, offering a few more sandwiches and sausages, and also adding wings, but barbecue platters are no longer available. Pizzas are now available everywhere, though, which is a welcome development.
We started with the fermented habanero wings, which were sweet, tangy and spicy — not Minnesota spicy, either, so not for the faint of tongue. The floral, fragrant, piquant jerk pork sandwich was also a winner, but I think our favorite item was the smoked potatoes. Little gem potatoes, heavily spiced and slightly smoky, are balanced with a bright fermented ramp aioli. We could not stop eating them.
520 Malcolm Ave. S.E., Minneapolis; 763-999-4040; surlybrewing.com
Brunson’s Pub
There’s something about this place — the food, the friendly service, the killer, reasonably priced cocktails — that feels like home. It also helps that their patio is lush with greenery and feels like a secret, urban oasis.
We scored a seat in the back, ordered our favorite drinks and some sandwiches. I had the fresh, summery banh mi with chef Torrance Beavers’ delicious housemade chips and dip, and my husband couldn’t stop raving about his Cajun tuna sandwich. And we got our usual his and hers cocktails: The old fashioned for him, and the Bad Hombre, a tequila/mezcal drink with a pineapple shrub, for me.
956 Payne Ave., St. Paul; 651-447-2483; brunsonspub.com
CHS Field
You might not be able to go to a ballgame, but we are loving the fact that you can still hang out in one and eat a ballpark hot dog! CHS has opened one of its stands and has set up spaced-out patio tables so you can stare longingly at the green grass and bases while you enjoy your burger, cheese curds, hot dog or tacos.
Reservations are required. Lunch only.
360 N. Broadway St., St. Paul; 651-644-6659; saintsbaseball.com
Hyacinth
I really thought that this 40-seat Grand Avenue gem would be one of the last to open its dining room, given that half capacity is so few diners. But the restaurant has pivoted again, offering five-course tasting menus all summer for just 18 diners at a time.
My husband and I sat at the bar and started with some herbaceous, fun cocktails while we waited for the courses to start coming.
Everything, from a decadent chicken liver crostini with sweet local strawberries to a dilly tuna tartare to the pea-shoot ricotta dumplings that were the essence of early summer, was absolutely delicious. It was well worth the $60 apiece, and with so few of us in the dining room, it felt quite safe, even though we were indoors.
790 Grand Ave., St. Paul; 651-478-1822; hyacinthstpaul.com
Handsome Hog
Chef Justin Sutherland’s first restaurant has moved to Cathedral Hill. While the dining room of the space, formerly The Fitz, is being remodeled, the gorgeou new patio is open and bustling.
Sutherland said he’s done more business on many days with just the patio than his best day in the old, quite cramped location in Lowertown. In addition to having more seats, the kitchen in the new space is enormous, which is allowing the restaurant to expand its menu.
We noshed on some of the best clams I’ve tasted, bathed in a smoky tomato sauce, roasted cauliflower, smoked, dry-rubbed ribs, chicken and waffles, and catfish. We also tried a decadent, brilliant brisket pizza, a nod to the previous restaurant, and a way to use the pizza ovens that still grace the kitchen.
Reservations, especially on weekends, fill up fast, so plan ahead.
173 N. Western Ave., St. Paul; 651-219-4013; handsomehog.com
"diary" - Google News
July 02, 2020 at 05:00PM
https://ift.tt/2BUXyYi
Diary of a food writer: Where I ate when restaurants returned - TwinCities.com-Pioneer Press
"diary" - Google News
https://ift.tt/2VTijey
https://ift.tt/2xwebYA
Bagikan Berita Ini
0 Response to "Diary of a food writer: Where I ate when restaurants returned - TwinCities.com-Pioneer Press"
Post a Comment