STATEN ISLAND, N.Y. -- On a blustery, mizzly spring night during the pandemic my husband and I enjoyed a cozy wine dinner accompanied by the lively chatter of fellow Staten Islanders. Massimo Felici of VINUM (VinumNYC.com) in Stapleton served as host to the gathering, which included the vintner himself plus a sommelier who curated the evening’s beverage program.
Wines for the tasting were pre-portioned and labeled.
Yes, this all took place virtually, courtesy of Zoom, with a nicely organized package of labeled food and portioned wines delivered to the house for $69 plus tax per guest. For the quantity and quality of items, it was a bargain by fine dining standards of the pre-quarantine era. Plus, we hunkered down without worrying about driving or calling a babysitter in a place we’re most comfortable these days -- our own kitchen.
Meals to-go with descriptions
Massimo’s dinner was enlightening on many levels. But first a little background warming up to this watershed moment in surreal modern dining.
This Michelin Bib Gourmande chef has been extraordinary in the midst of the coronavirus shutdown. Massimo’s a tenacious guy based on his history here on Staten Island so far -- he took a restaurant location known for its chronic failures and built it into a mainstay on a formerly beleaguered block in Stapleton.
Direct from Siena, Tuscany, Leonardo Bellacini, winemaker from San Felice on a Zoom.
In March, he opened up a market in his small restaurant with professional grade cleaning supplies and disinfectants, toilet paper and groceries. These goods are still sold alongside his streamlined version of VINUM’s Italian eats. But Massimo figured out early in the game creative packaging for specialty cocktails and for keeping his wine guy, Roberto Hernandez, busy earning his salt.
So back to that lovely meal starting with VINUM-made focaccia and the folks “around” us in the intangible dining room. Massimo introduced his wife, Deyanira, and Leonardo Bellacini, winemaker from San Felice “Zoomed” in at 1 a.m. from his kitchen in Siena, Tuscany. Roberto shared words beforehand and typed a paper thesis accompanying the presentation.
Venison carpaccio with peppered tenderloin, shaved truffle, arugula and shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano
We dined first on carpaccio of venison, a well-composed “dish” of thin-shaved tenderloin partnered with arugula and aged Parmigiano-Reggiano shaves plus black peppercorn. Frankly there is no gracious way to re-plate this dish and my regret is not eating it right from the plastic container -- although we tried to be civilized. Anyway, potent black truffles bridged a flavor rainbow to Rosso di Montalcino.
Paccheri with wild boar ragu
That first flight served as palate primer for the the next course -- a ragu of wild boar over hearty pasta partnered with the vineyard’s Chianti Classico.
Rabbit Provincial with olives, rosemary and Swiss chard served alongside a mushroom polenta cake
Third for the supping was tender, wine-braised Spanish rabbit served either as cacciatore or Provincale, with rosemary, Gaeta olives, Swiss chard and a mushroom-polenta cake. This was a feat for vino pairing with its brine and metallic notes from liver and heart bits in the sauce. But it worked. Roberto picked an equally complex 2014 Chianti Gran Selezione.
Dinner finished with a modified Napoleon, puff pastry filled with custard garnished with berries. It travelled well and put a satisfying end to the meal with a sweet and woodsy Vin Santo.
Vin Santo with a Napoleon
Thoughtful and exciting, not to mention convenient on so many levels, I thought the concept presented by VINUM was a winning one. The effort here suggests that fine dining hasn’t kicked the bucket. It just takes creativity and a willing audience as it adapts to its new platform.
Pamela Silvestri is Advance Food Editor. She can be reached at silvestri@siadvance.com.
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